December garden

December in the garden
One favourite horticultural jobs at this time of year must be choosing a Christmas tree. Real trees don’t suit everyone but for the people who do want one, you generally have a choice of Spruces (such as the traditional Norway Spruce) or Firs (such as the Nordman Fir or Douglas Fir). They each have their own pros and cons; the spruces tend to be cheaper but the firs don’t drop their needles so readily. What ever you go for, just remember to treat the tree like a cut flower, cut the bottom couple of inches off and make sure it has plenty of water. Don’t put it next to a radiator and keep it outside in a bucket of water until you are ready to bring it in.
1. Clear the remainder of the leaves, most would have come down already. Last to come down are normally weeping willow leaves followed by the alders.
2. As with last month make sure your tender plants are protected, either fleeced or brought indoors.
3. You shouldn’t need to do any hoeing but if you do get the urge be careful not to hoe off any emerging bulbs. It’s easily done.
4. Continue planting deciduous trees and shrubs. It’s a good time for planting both fruit trees and fruit bushes. You can still just about get away with planting any bulbs if you didn’t get time last month.
5. This time of year is traditionally the best time to prune your apples and pears. Cut off any dead or diseased branches and any crossing branches to keep an open shape. With apple trees I was always told that they should be nice and open so that a pigeon could fly right throw the tree without knocking into any branches. Remember don’t prune cherries, plums and peaches until the spring/ early summer.
6. Don’t be tempted to feed your plants at this time of year. Most are not actively growing so they don’t need it. Any soft growth that may be promoted could get hammered by the cooler temperatures.
7. Give your compost heap a good stir to ensure that it gets mixed thoroughly.
8. Caring for Poinsettias. If you get a poinsettia for Christmas, make sure you keep it well lit, away from draughts and don’t let the temperatures fall below 13 degrees. Don’t over water and let the compost dry out between waterings. To get it to colour up again for next Christmas, cut the stems back to about 10cm in the early spring and then re-pot and water in May. At the start of October cover the plant from the early evening so that it gets 14 hours of darkness. Do this for 8 weeks and then the bracts should turn red. Remember, the key is 14 hours of darkness for 8 weeks.
9. Clear away any dead annuals, runner beans, bedding, etc.
10. Dig over vacant areas; the winter frosts should help to break down the soil ready for working in the spring.


Picking flowers
Make a wreath using anything you can forage from the garden.

The first of your indoor bulbs eg Narcissus ‘Paper White’ start to flower.
Harvesting

•Brassicas: kale, red and green cabbages and first Brussels sprouts.
•Roots: parsnips, last carrots, beetroot under straw and celeriac.
•Salad: all hardy salad leaves eg rocket, winter purslane, mustards and Florence fennel under straw.
•Leafy greens: chard (may need a cloche).
•Squash: stored pumpkins and squash.
•Stems: leeks.
•Herbs: hardy cut-and-come-again herbs eg parsley, par-cel, coriander, chervil and evergreens eg rosemary, sage, bay and winter savory.

Other jobs in the garden
Take a break and have a look at ideas for next years garden from our seed, plant and bulb ranges.

up coming events courses meeting

January 25th
AGM at Foresthill Herne Tavern
Forsethill rd
time be posted soon




March Sunday 30th 2010
Build a cob oven
What is Cob?

It is a mixture of clay, sand and straw. For many people, clay is associated with either pottery or builders waste. However, it is to be found in plentiful quantity beneath the topsoil in most gardens. It’s sticky and resilient, and with the right preparation, it can be a wonderfully versatile building material.

Be prepared to work hard, with this very interactive course, as you dig the mud, mould the clay.

The course begins at 10am talking about building with cob and dig local clay. Then everyone will get their feet dirty mixing the muck.
We will then break for a seasonal lunch,
Bring wellies and waterproofs, and wear warm old clothes.
Timings: 10.00am to 4.00pm
Recommended Age: We would advise that this course is only really suitable for 10yrs of age and upwards. Under 16s must be accompanied by an adult. We put these guidelines for the safety, comfort and enjoyment of all our guests.

A DAY AT RIVER COTTAGE FOR £13 ONLY

Get Growing in Spring
Sunday 21st March 2010


The soil’s starting to warm up, the buds are beginning to burst – it’s Spring, the perfect time to sow many of the seeds that will become delicious harvests in the coming weeks and months. Peas, broad beans, tomatoes and the quick-return salads are just some of the many seeds you can sow right now. If you’re not sure how to go about it, or you want to take your veg patch to the next level, today’s the day for you.

Our Get Growing in Spring event aims to celebrate the start of the growing season. We'll be have our expert Garden Team will be on hand throughout the day to show you that growing at least a little of your own food is simple and achievable for everyone, no matter how small your space or limited your time. This event is an opportunity to see how we go about things here at River Cottage. For just £13 a ticket, you will visit the Kitchen Garden and the new allotments in early Spring, see the different methods we use to grow vegetables, fruit and herbs and take away tips on applying them to your patch, whatever its size. You’ll also have the chance to see how a polytunnel, greenhouse or even a window sill can extend your growing season and provide the perfect place to start off many of your plants.


We’re also being joined by some of the suppliers and producers that we work with – so whether you’re after seeds, tools, kits or advice, you’ll find it at the Get Growing in Spring event. There will be demonstrations, workshops, and plenty of opportunity to ask any questions you like. The River Cottage Kitchen team will also be serving up delicious seasonal lunches for you to buy.

We will be running our “Bring and Barter Produce Exchange Tent”. We'd like you take part by bringing some of your own home made goodies along for the day. Perhaps you’ve a few winter brassicas, some chutney from last season’s surplus or some belting homebrew - these will all be put towards the Produce Exchange, where you can swap your produce for someone else's.

We will also be holding a ‘Seed Swap’. If you’ve a half full packet from last year or an old favourite you’d like to swap for some new varieties, bring them along and swap them with other people in the Seed Swap tent.So if you’ve ever looked over your fence and marvelled at your neighbour’s veg patch or just wondered what it might be like to grow and eat food at its very best, then come and join us on the 21st March 2010.

We’re afraid that due to the livestock on site, we can not allows dogs on the farm.

Please note – Hugh will not be at this event

Please note children under 12 years old are completely free

Location: This course is run from River Cottage HQ on the Dorset/Devon border. Full address details for RCHQ will be provided once you have booked.

Food: There will be lunch and refreshments available to buy throughout the day which is not included within the ticket price.

Wine/drink: We are a licensed venue, and our bar will be open during the day, with a selection of wines, beers, ciders and soft drinks available to buy.

Accommodation: If you need local accommodation, please click here for a list of hotels and bed & breakfasts, recommended to us by our guests (the accommodation list will be automatically emailed to you once you have booked). We dont have camping facilities ourselves, but for information on local campsites and self-catering accommodation, you can call the Lyme Regis Tourist Information Centre on 01297 442 138, Axminster Tourist Information Centre on 01297 34386, or Seaton Tourist Information Centre on 01297 21660, any of whom will be happy to help.
book here
Time: 10.30am - 4.30pm

Mayow Park nursery yard is now part of the 2012 growing campaign for Captial Growth.

The growing space is in Sydenham in South london

at the Envirowork Lewisham Nusrsery yard

Small holders in Spain Self sufficient living

South London Garden Organic recieved an email read below .

Fancy a visit to Spain?

This is their site asimplerlife.yola.site.com

Hi, we are gardeners living in the Sierra de Aracena, Andalucia, and after many years of searching have just bought 2.5 hectares of land to create a forest garden. The culmination of a long-held dream, to live more simply, healthily, and sustainably.And the reason for telling you all this is because like gardeners everywhere we want to swap ideas/ expertise/ plants and seeds with likeminded souls. Even encourage them to come and visit. By linking what happens here with your newsletter/ website. Either through a feature, regular column, or just posting our blog address. Whatever you think is appropriate. Right now we have a basic blogsite for friends and readers of our books, to let them know what weŕe up to. Soon that will be joined by another, dedicated to the garden and our efforts at self-sufficiency.Look forward to hearing from you.
Maureen & Phil Rooksby El Pocito Almonaster La Real21350 HuelvaAndalucia SPAIN monkeyandsofia.blogspot.com

Gardening tips

Tips and Tricks for Better Plants and a Better Garden
General
Use old tights or odd socks for tree and plant ties as they are nice and soft, flexible and won’t cut into the stem.
When watering your plants, make sure that you give them a really good drink. Just giving them a short watering encourages the roots to develop closer to the surface of the soil, making the plant less drought tolerant and more susceptible to be rocked by the wind.
Water hanging baskets by putting ice cubes on the top. As they melt moisture is slowly released.
Age new statues by smearing on natural yoghurt
Banana skins are good for feeding roses.
Stop cut tulips from flopping in a vase by putting a pin through the stem just under the flower.
Fizzy, sugary drinks can be used as plant feed in vases and alcohol can sterilise the water just like a drop of bleach.
Vegetables
Golden rule for planting vegetable seeds, don’t sow too early, too thickly or too deeply.
Runner beans can be grown as an ornamental climber – originally they were grown as ornamentals in Victorian times before they were grown for food.
Don’t plant cauliflowers in sandy soil or they will fail.
Brussels Sprouts will fail on loose, infertile soil, so make sure the soil is enriched with well-rotted manure the winter before sowing. Also, ridge up the plants with soil and firm them in. Brassicas also like alkaline soils so lime if necessary the previous winter.
Plant food-bearing plants when the moon is waxing (increasing to a full moon) and ornamentals when the moon is waning (decreasing).

Pest Control Plant some Marigolds around the vegetable garden and they will keep pests away. Companion planting.
To keep rabbits away from your crops, it was said to plant a row of onions ,chives or garlic. (anything from the allium family).
Plant garlic and chives among roses to keep greenfly away.
Methylated spirits can be used to control wooly aphids.
To prevent slugs getting to plants in containers, smear the outside of the container with Vaseline or WD40 .
Ants nests can damage grass roots in lawns so apply ant gel or clove oil in a watering can. Ants don’t like water.

Planting and Sowing
-When sowing seeds, use a pencil dipped into water to pick up the seeds and place them onto the growing medium. That way you don’t lose any. Or use a match stick.
-Mix fine seed with sand for ease of sowing. You can also use non-scented talcum powder so you can see them as you are sowing them.
When planting trees, dig a square hole rather than a round one as it allows the roots to spread out evenly.
When to plant trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs and vegetables
When to Plant
In general, you can plant trees and shrubs all year round as long as the soil isn’t frozen, covered with snow or waterlogged. Bear in mind though that if we have a hot summer and it is really dry you will need to keep the plants well watered. This applies to container grown plants, bare-rooted plants should be planted in the autumn when the soil is still warm.

Planting Trees
The best time to plant trees is late autumn to early spring (October to March) when they are in a dormant state. Most apple trees are planted October to December.
Prepare the soil a couple of weeks before planting by digging in plenty of organic material. To plant simply dig a hole large enough to take the roots, generally twice the size of the pot, place the tree in the hole and cover the roots with soil up to the surrounding ground level. Trees should be planted in a square hole to encourage even rooting. The tree should be planted to the same depth as it was in the pot and not any deeper – the biggest cause of tree death is planting too deeply. Having planted the tree, firm down the soil using your boots to ensure the soil is in good contact with the roots and water well to wash the soil in around its roots.
(Note – when planting fruit trees the graft union should be at least 3-4 inches above soil level).
If necessary the tree should be staked, with the stake being driven into the soil at a 45 degree angle, being careful not to go through the root ball. Tie the trunk to the stake using plastic tree ties available from the garden centre. Do not use wire or string as this will cut into the tree trunk with time and damage it. You will need to check the ties in the first couple of years to ensure that they don’t become too tight.

Planting Shrubs
You can’t go far wrong if you plant evergreens in early to mid-autumn or mid to late spring, and deciduous shrubs between mid-autumn and early spring when soil and weather conditions are favourable. Good soil preparation is important and it is a good idea to dig in good organic matter before you plant to give them a good start. Dig a hole about twice the size of the pot that the plant is in and loosely fork over the bottom of the hole. Tease out the roots so they are encouraged to grow into the surrounding soil and plant to the same level as they are in the pot and then back fill the hole with soil and firm in. Some shrubs should be planted slightly deeper such as roses and clematis, roses to cover the union of the graft and clematis to discourage wilt but on the whole most shrubs shouldn’t be planted too deeply. Rhododendrons for example always do better if not planted too deeply, as do phormiums, if in doubt check the label. Water in well.

Planting Perennials
Generally, perennials can be planted during autumn or spring, although containerised plants can go in at any time provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Make sure that the root balls are thoroughly soaked before planting, if really dry soak in a bucket for a few minutes. Dig the planting hole of a shape and size to allow the roots to spread comfortably, and at a depth to the level of the crown – the point where the stems and roots join. Firm the plant in and water thoroughly if the soil is dry.

Planting Annuals
Annuals can be planted mid-spring to early summer, depending on the location and the type of plant. Begin with the hardier ones, such as sweet peas and pansies, and finish with the more tender types such as pelargoniums and fuchsias when the danger of frost has subsided. Before planting, water the containers and allow the plants to absorb the moisture before moving them. During dry periods, puddle them in – fill the planting hole with water and allow it to soak in, then set the plant in place and fill the hole with soil.

Planting Bulbs
Spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and crocus should be planted in the autumn preferably by the end of September. Tulips are best planted in November but can be left to December at a push. As a general rule plant the bulb at a depth that is 3 times the size of the bulb itself ( if a bulb is 1 inch in size then there should be 3 inches from the surface to the top of the bulb). Plant in groups rather than singly. Dig a hole to the required planting depth and then space them at least twice the bulb’s own height and width apart. Carefully replace the soil and gently firm with the back of a rake.

Planting and Sowing vegetables
Growing vegetables from seed can be quite challenging, but basically the thing to remember is not to sow them too early, not too deeply and not too thickly. Sowing also depends on whether you sow indoors or outdoors directly in the soil. Decide on what you want to grow and have a good look at the seed packets for detailed growing information. You also may not want to grow from seed but buy plants from the garden centre if you are short of time and grow them on. Consider growing heritage varieties of veg such as purple peas (Lancashire Lad) or white carrots (White Belgium)

Sowing seed outdoors – Prepare the seed bed in early spring, wait until the soil dries out and doesn’t stick to your boots. Dig over the area you want to plant into (in some cases you will have done this already in the winter) and break down the clods of soil with the back of a fork. Rake level, removing large stones, aiming for the soil to have a consistency of coarse breadcrumbs.
Mark out the row with a taut piece of string and with the edge of a hoe draw out a drill to the depth recommended for the vegetable to be sown. Water the row before sowing, once sown cover the seed gently with soil with back of a rake.

Sowing seed indoors – Choose plastic rather than wooden containers, using trays, small pots or cellular trays and use a seed or multi-purpose compost. Firm the compost in place and water it. Sow according to the instructions on the packet. Do not cover very fine seed with compost. Other seeds should be covered with compost or vermiculite to a depth which is twice the diameter of the seed. Most seeds require a fairly warm temperature to germinate (about 70 degrees F). If you haven’t got access to a greenhouse most seed can germinate on the windowsill of a central heated room. Keep well watered with a fine sprayer ensuring the compost doesn’t dry out.
As soon as the first set of true leaves have opened the seedlings should be pricked out into small pots or cellular trays. Once they get to this stage high temperatures are not required and 50-55 degrees are OK. When the seedlings have recovered from the pricking out move, they must be hardened off to prepare them for life outside. Move to a cold frame and then open on dry frost free days. Later keep them open day and night for 7 days before planting out. Windowsill plantings should be moved into an unheated room before being stood out for a few days prior to planting outside in the garden.

January
• Sow Bulb Onions seeds under glass
February
• Sow early Carrot seeds in a cold frame
• Sow Bulb Onions and Lettuces under glass
• Sow Beetroot, Spinach and Carrots in the soil, will need protection
March
• Continue to sow Early Peas and Broad Beans in mild areas
• Sow Lettuces, Radishes and Spring Onions in the soil
• Sow Summer Cabbages, Leeks and Brussels Sprouts in a seed bed
• Sow Tomato seeds in trays or pots and keep at 18°C (65°F)
• Sow Beetroots, Carrots and Turnips in the soil
• In the south, plant Early Potatoes and Onion Sets at the end of the month providing the soil is not excessively wet
April
• Continue to sow Lettuces, Radishes and Spring Onions in the soil
• Sow Cucumbers, Marrows, Pumpkins and Squashes under glass
• Sow Winter Cabbages and Late Summer Cauliflowers in a seed bed
• Continue to plant Onion Sets
• Plant out Onions grown from seed under glass into the soil
• Plant out Asparagus crowns (will take 2 years for harvest)
• Sow leaf beet and chard outside
• In the north, plant Early Potatoes providing the soil is not excessively wet
• Plant Main Crop Potatoes
• Plant Onion Sets and Potatoes in the middle of the month unless the soil is excessively wet
• Plant Tomatoes in the greenhouse or in cold frame
May
• Continue to sow Lettuces, Radishes and Spring Onions in the soil
• In the north, sow Runner Beans under glass
• Sow French Beans, Runner Beans and Long Rooted Beetroot towards the end of the month when the frost risk has subsided
• Plant out Late Summer Cauliflowers
• In the north, plant out Brussels Sprouts
• Plant out Cucumbers, Marrows, Pumpkins and Squashes towards the end of the month
June
• Continue to sow French Beans, Peas and salad crops in the soil
• Continue to plant out Cucumbers, Marrows, Pumpkins and Squashes
• Plant out Brussels Sprouts and Winter Cabbages
• Plant out Tomatoes
• Plant out Leeks
July
• Continue to sow salad crops in the soil
• Complete planting Brussels Sprouts, Leeks and Winter Cabbages
August
• Sow early Spring Cabbages
September
• Plant out Spring Cabbages towards the end of the month
November
-Sow autumn broad beans such as Aquadulce to provide beans for June, winter peas



Ornamental Veggies: Urban dwellers and other small space gardeners can make better use of their space by tucking veggies and edibles in amongst their bedding plants rather than separating them out into distinct gardens, or grow some in hanging baskets . There are lots of unusual edibles available with gorgeous flowers and foliage. Try 'Red Burgundy Okra', 'Bull's Blood' Beets, 'Mascara' lettuce, and 'Lipstick' strawberries, to name a few.


Hold Dirt in with Coffee Filters or old tea bags
You can use coffee filters and tea bags as an alternative to rocks or terracotta shards over holes in containers to keep the dirt from falling out.


You can collect Free coffee grounds at Starbucks or ask your local coffee shop to save you some.
Coffee grounds can provide a valuable source of nutrition for your garden.
Applying coffee grinds directly to your garden:


Coffee grounds can be applied directly as a top dressing to acid loving plants like blueberries, hydrangeas, and azaleas (acid loving plants thrive in areas where rainfall is common in the warm season).
Adding brown material such as leaves and dried grass to the mulch will help keep a balanced soil pH.
Mixing coffee grounds in your compost:
Coffee grounds act as a green material with a carbon-nitrogen (C-N) ratio of 20-1. Combined with browns such as leaves and straw, coffee grounds generate heat and will speed up the compost process. Don’t make your coffee grounds more than 25% of any one pile’s content.
Using coffee grounds in your worm bin:
Worms fed with coffee grounds and other vegetarian materials will flourish.


Lighten Your Containers and Save Soil: To decrease weight and for really good drainage, use foam peanuts or broken pieces of styrofoam in the bottom of your pots, then fill with soil. While no one should go out and buy the stuff, it tends to sneak up on you anyway -- at least this way it can be useful and reuseable.


Pepper Plant Spray: A great way to help along your pepper plant blossoms in setting fruit is to add a bit of espom salts to a spray bottle and spray it directly onto the leaves and buds as they are just developing. Epsom salts contain magnesium which pepper plants need to produce healthy peppers.

Magazine Subscription Cards Put to Good Use:
Instead of throwing out all those annoying subscription cards that fall out of every magazine, turn them into seed packets. Just fold them over and seal the edges with glue or tape. Make sure to note what is in each packet- unless you like surprises.

Weed Control in Vegetable Gardens: A great way to avoid weeds around vegetable crops such as tomatoes or squash is to plant low growing, quick harvest crops such as lettuce or radish around the base of the larger veggies. This will fill up the empty spaces until the late harvest plants have filled out more, providing less places for weeds to grow. It will also keep the soil around the plant shaded and moist which means less watering.

Natural Herbicides: If you have small areas or cracks and crevices that you need to weed try these natural herbicides. They won't damage the environment and are nontoxic to mammals and beneficial insects. Vinegar and salt is great for places where you won't be growing anything in the near future. Spray directly on plants. To remove young plants, pour boiling water directly on them. This is the simplest, yet safest herbicide there is. Just be careful to avoid plants that you don't want to damage.

Super-size Your Basil & other herbs .
Tired of waiting until midsummer to harvest basil & herbs fresh from your garden? While waiting for your seedlings to develop into plants, buy a basil or herb plant which you purchased at grocery section at your local store.
Just dived the plant into small bundels, place in to pot or straight into the garden & water well.
Herbs also grow & look great in a hanging basket



Growing Tomatoes in Containers: There are two types of tomatoes, determinate and indeterminate. Determinate ripen their fruit all at one time. Indeterminate have fruit production throughout the season. Determinant plants are better for container growing because they will stay compact (also the Husky variety, a dwarf indeterminant, is also great for containers). Indeterminant plants get huge and will need support.


Fast Rooting: When rooting cuttings in water, you can actually speed up the process by placing a piece of willow branch in the water along with the cutting. Willow contains natural auxins, a hormone that stimulates root growth and development. These chemicals are synthetically produced and used in powdered and gel rooting hormones.

Shredded Paper Mulch:
After using your paper shredder, store the paper until you have enough to use as a base layer of mulch with compost or manure spread over it to winterize your plants. Remember not to use glossy paper ads.

Super Sized Containers: Large pots can take a lot of soil to fill and they weigh a ton once they are full. It is unnecessary to completely fill a container with soil if you are planting shallow-rooted plants. Place some styrofoam chunks, styrofoam peanuts, old plastic pots or soda cans in the bottom of the container as filler. It will make the container lighter for easy moving, and save money too.

Save Money: Purchase perennials in mid /end summer.
Many garden centers will have sales at this time of year and by next summer they will be larger and in full bloom. Look at the reduced section even if the plant looks a bit on it's last legs ,floppy or dull these plants will go in the reduced sale section ,but with a bit of TLC they will look great next year .

Quick Space Fillers: Often when you start a new perennial garden it will take some time for the plants to grow and your garden may look a little bare. Plant fast growing annuals in the empty spaces until the perennials grow large enough to take over.

Save Your Flower Seeds: You can save money by harvesting seeds from your flowering plants for next year. Snip off seed heads when they are ripe and shake them into a brown paper bag. Make your own seed packets using paper envelopes. You can write the name of the corresponding plant onto the envelope or decorate them to give away to friends. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark and dry place.


The Mint Pot: Don't let mint and other invasive herbs take over your garden.
Curb their wild tendencies by planting mint in a pot, then planting the pot into the soil.

Get Your Indoor Plants Out of the House:
Houseplants love a warm summer rain much more than cold tap water.

South london Garden Organic Tour to Yalding

SOW LABEL GROW

Now is the time to start planting most of your seeds

vegatables , herbs for your garden, allotment,window box or kitchen windowsill.

These Hand foil-stamped birdy plant labels, 40p each, by London designer Kim Jenkins or buy at Broadway maket

STARTING FROM SEED

Materials:
Desired Seeds
Spray bottle
Containers
Seed-starting soil

Containers:

Gardeners have the choice of separate pots for each plant or flats holding many plants. The choice depends on various factors including your space limitations and the fragility of your desired plants.

Use separate pots or plug trays for most of my plants because there is less of a chance of damaging roots when transplanting. However, trays may be the more practical choice for lettuce, spinach, kale and other small seed crops.

Reuse last year's small nursery pots if you have them. Alternatively, ask friends and family.
Most gardeners have them lying around.
If neither of these options work out, any container two to three inches deep will do, including disposable cups, yogurt containers, milk cartons and toilet rolls.

You can also buy kits at your local plant nursery.

Compressed peat discs and re-useable plastic plug trays.

Make sure your containers are clean by washing with hot water.
Ensure that each pot has good drainage, i.e. a hole or two in the bottom.

Place containers in a water-catching tray lined with pebbles.

This ensures that the drained water stays out of the pot preventing root rot.
Seeds and seedlings are extremely sensitive to disease and nutrient levels. Seedlings will appreciate it if you buy a seed starting mix from your local nursery.

Fill each container with soil up to 1/4 inch from the top of the container.

Ready, set?. SOW!

Sowing the seeds:
Moisten the soil in the containers before sowing the seeds.
Put two seeds in each container to ensure something emerging.
Generally, gardeners cover the seeds to a depth about 3 times the thickness of the seeds.

Be sure to read seed packets for seed specific instructions.
Pat the soil lightly and water with watering can with rose

Transplant plants when large enough

Ten Good Reasons to Grow a Green Manure Crop!

1 They're cheap and easy to grow.
2 A packet of green manure seeds is easy to carry home - unlike a large sack of animal manure!
3 They can increase soil fertility.
4 They improve soil structure and help prevent soil erosion.
5 They encourage efficient use of land. So why not grow a green manure crop on your unused land this winter?
6 Most green manure crops are very attractive to wildlife.
7 Bare soil encourages weed growth, so green manure bare ground to keep weeds in check.
8 By taking up nutrients from the soil, green manure crops prevent them from being washed away when it rains.
9 Some green manure plants (legumes) are nitrogen fixers.
10 Green manuring increases the humus content of the soil.

How does Green Manuring Work?

Traditionally, green manure crops are sown and allowed to grow, either until the land is needed again or until the plants have reached a certain growth stage. At this point, they are cut down, dug in to the soil and are left to decompose, releasing vital plant nutrients back into the soil which are then used by the next crop. Obviously, if you are using strict no-dig, veganic gardening methods, then digging the crop into the soil is not really an option.

But if you don't want to dig, then green manure crops can also be composted or used as a mulching material instead.

SOW & GROW NOW

Winter purslane
Cornsalad
Red frills mustard
Chinese leaf,

Tatsoi Red
Russian Kale
Spring green cabbage
Calabrese Spring onions
Land cress
Giant red mustard
Mizuna
Broad beans

Cavolo Nero
Winter green cabbage
Carrots

A SPLASH OF NETTLES AND A DOLLOP OF COMFREY

Having a patch of nettles and comfrey will have many benefits to your garden or allotment, not only is the stinging nettle one of the most important native plants for wildlife in the UK.
The nettle supports over 40 species of insect including some of our most colourful butterflies.

Comfrey has become an important plant for the organic gardening movement. It has thick, far reaching roots which access minerals deep in the soil, making it rich in potassium and nitrogen. The fast-growing leaves can be cut several times a year to make an organic slug control, liquid fertiliser, leaf mould and compost activator. Comfrey has long been associated with herbal medicines and there is no doubt that it can be effective in the treatment of sprains and bruises. Many people use it to ease the pain of arthritic joints and the roots mashed into a paste may help to heal wounds.
Comfrey also benefits many willdife creatures which are important to crop pollination.

Buff-tailed bumble bee, Common carder bumble bee, Honey bee, Red mason bee, Red-tailed bumble bee, White-tailed bumble bee

Natural leaf-based fertilizer involves putting comfrey and nettle leaves into a container. Fill it with water and cover it. It has a strong odor, so you may want to store it outdoors. To use it as fertilizer, dilute it with one part mixture and 20 parts water. Depending on what you’re growing, different ingredients will add nutrients to this mixture. For example, tea leaves add nitrogen and manganese and alfalfa will add numerous amounts of nutrients and minerals.

Organic slug & snail remedy

Problems with slugs and snails eating your plants? Get two bulbs of garlic, and smoosh them with a rolling pin...take out your frustration on them. Put them in 2 pints of water, and simmer for one hour. Let the liquid cool, and strain into a container. Use one tablespoon of the liquid to one gallon of water. One use of this is supposed to be sufficient, but I use it maybe every two months. Use it on any plant that is suseptible to slug attack. Good luck.

Gardens Giving Special offers to Garden organic members

In additon to Ryton and English Heritage Audley End
members get discount or free entry to the following gardens
with membership card.

Berkshire
Waltham Palace Farm
Open May -Sept
Offer 2 for1
http://www.walthamplace.com/welcome.php?section=diary

Chesire
Arley Hall & Gardens
open tue to Sun
offer 2 for 1
http://www.arleyhallandgardens.com/

Cumbria
Brantwood
Mid March to Mid Nov
offer 2 for 1

http://www.brantwood.org.uk/

Former home of John Ruskin. Brantwood is the most beautifully situated house in the Lake District

Devon
RHS Garden Rosemoor
Free admission
http://www.rhs.org.uk/whatson/gardens/rosemoor/index.asp

Clovelly Court Garden
1March -30th Oct

Free admission
http://www.britainsfinest.co.uk/gardens/gardens.cfm/searchazref/810011013651

Essex
RHS Garden Hyde Hall
Members + guest free
http://www.rhs.org.uk/WhatsOn/Gardens/

Gloucestershire
Owlpen Manor Estate
May - Sept
Free admission
http://www.owlpen.com/

Kent Brogdale Horticultural trust
open winter
Free admission
http://www.brogdale.org/

Godinton House and Gardens

Free admission
http://www.godinton-house-gardens.co.uk/

Bedgebury National Pinetum
winter & summer
Fee admission
http://www.bedgeburypinetum.org.uk/

Leicestershire
Belvoir Castle
April to 30 Sept
offer 2 for 1
http://www.belvoircastle.com/thegardens.asp

Lincolnshire
Normanby Hall & Country Park
Open Daily
Free admisson
http://www.aboutbritain.com/NormanbyHallCountryPark.htm

Ruthland
Barnsdale Gardens
Free admission
http://www.barnsdalegardens.co.uk/

Surrey
RHS Wisley
open all year
Free admission
http://www.rhs.org.uk/whatson/gardens/wisley/index.asp

Losley park
Guildford

May - Sept
Free admission
http://www.loseley-park.com/

West midlands
Birmingham Botanical Gardens
Open every day
Free admisson
http://www.birminghambotanicalgardens.org.uk/

West Sussex
West Dean Gardens
Chichester
March _ Oct
Offer 2 for 1
http://www.westdean.org.uk/site/gardens/

Yorkshire
RHS Garden Harlow Carr
Harrogate
open All year
Free admission
www.rhs.org.uk/harlowcarr

Ripley Castle Gardens
Harrogate
Open all year
Free admision
http://www.ripleycastle.co.uk/

Kew at Castle Howard
Aboretum Trust
York
March - Nov
Free admission
http://www.kewatch.co.uk/